Shooting the Aurora: The Ultimate 2026 Photography Guide

One of the most common myths about the Northern Lights is that you need a multi-thousand-dollar camera setup to capture them. While professional gear is great, the technology in 2026 means that the phone in your pocket is more than capable of taking a “wall-worthy” photo.

Whether you are using the latest smartphone or a high-end mirrorless camera, here is how to dial in your settings for the perfect shot.

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1. Smartphone Photography: The “Night Mode” Revolution

Modern smartphones (iPhone 15–17, Samsung S24–S26, Pixel 9–10) use computational photography to see colors the human eye often misses.

The Settings:

• Night Mode: Ensure Night Mode is active (usually a yellow moon icon). For the best results, manually slide the timer to “Max” (usually 10–30 seconds). Note: The phone will only allow the 30-second option if it detects it is perfectly still on a tripod.
• The 1x Lens: Always use your primary (1x) lens. It has the largest sensor and the widest aperture, meaning it lets in the most light. Avoid using the “Ultra-Wide” or “Zoom” lenses for aurora shots as they often produce grainy, dark images.
• Raw Mode: If your phone supports it (Apple ProRAW or Samsung Expert RAW), turn it on. This saves more data, allowing you to brighten the photo later without losing quality.
• Apps to Try: If your native camera app feels limited, download NightCap Camera or Slow Shutter Cam. These apps have dedicated “Aurora” modes that lock the focus and ISO for you.

Real life example:

During my recent expedition to Fairbanks, Alaska, I put the iPhone 16 Pro to the test. The shot below was captured handheld without a tripod. Using the native camera app’s Night Mode on the 1x lens, I kept a steady hand for a 3-second exposure. For the final touch, I used the iPhone’s built-in AUTO edit feature to balance the colors and pull out the vibrant colors of the display.

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2. DSLR & Mirrorless: The Manual Masterclass

For those wanting the highest resolution and “star-sharp” details, manual control is king.

The “Starting Point” Settings:

• Mode: Manual (M)
• Aperture: As wide as possible (lowest f-number). Aim for f/1.4, f/1.8, or f/2.8.
• ISO: Start at 1600. If the lights are faint, go up to 3200. If they are very bright, drop to 800 to reduce grain.
• Shutter Speed:
  • Slow/Faint Lights: 10–15 seconds.
  • Fast/Dancing Lights: 2–5 seconds. (You want a faster shutter to “freeze” the curtain-like structures so they don’t look like a green blur).
• Focus: Switch to Manual Focus. Find a bright star or a distant light on the horizon, zoom in on your screen, and turn the focus ring until the point of light is a tiny, sharp dot.

Real life example:

Around the same time of the iPhone picture above, I used two cameras, one for photo and one for time lapse. The shot below was captured with Sony 7a II with FE2/28mm lens. I used ISO 1000, f2, and 6s. For the final touch, I also used the iPhone’s built-in AUTO edit feature to balance the colors and pull out the vibrant colors of the display.

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3. The Golden Rule: Stability

Even the steadiest hands will cause “micro-shakes” during a 5-second exposure, resulting in blurry stars.

• For Phones: Get a small, foldable “GorillaPod” or a basic tripod mount.
• For Cameras: A sturdy tripod is essential, especially in the windy Arctic.
• The Shutter Hack: Use a 2-second timer or a remote shutter. This ensures the camera doesn’t shake when you physically press the button.

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4. Pro-Tips

Keep Your Batteries Warm:

Lithium-ion batteries hate the cold. In places like Alaska or Norway, your battery can drop from 80% to 0% in minutes. Keep spare batteries in an inside pocket against your body heat or hand warmer. In my Fairbanks trip in March when the temperature at night was around -26C or -15 F, the Sony a7 IV battery lasted around 2-3 hours with constant shooting. the Sony a7 II battery dropped pretty fast. When it was fully charged, it lasted for about half an hour. But then when the battery was around 60%, the battery lasted for only a few minutes.

The “Ziploc Trick” to Save Your Gear:

When you’re shooting in places like Alaska or Norway, your camera gets incredibly cold. If you walk straight into a warm hotel room or a heated car, the moisture in the warm air will instantly condense inside your camera and lens. This is more than just a foggy screen. It can lead to internal mold (fungus) or short-circuit your electronics. Before walking through the door, place your camera and lens into a large, airtight Ziploc bag and seal it tight while you are still out in the cold. Once inside, leave the camera in the bag for 1 to 2 hours. If you don’t have a bag, zip your camera inside your well-padded camera bag before going in and don’t open it for a few hours. The padding acts as insulation, allowing the temperature to rise slowly and safely.

Look for Reflection:

If you are near a lake or the ocean (like in Iceland or the Lofoten Islands), try to include the water in your frame. A “Double Aurora” reflecting off the water is one of the most stunning shots you can get.